Muir Woods National Monument
I spent my 40th birthday beneath the canopy of Muir Woods’ towering coastal redwoods. It is nigh impossible to feel poorly about growing older when you are surrounded by trees that out age you by centuries. To be fair though, I don’t have any complaints about another year under my belt, even when that year was 2020. In truth, as someone who lives with chronic depression, this last year could’ve gone south in a hurry. Instead, I focused on things that I knew would keep me going, such as time spent with my family, working on my art, and social justice activism, but I was also lucky enough to find some pleasant surprises along the way. My new-ish-ly found love for hiking was among those surprises, and quarantine gave me the ability to not only pursue the interest, but I was also able to share it with my family. I am eternally grateful that socially-distanced outdoor recreation continues to be a safe pastime.
“The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness.”
Muir Woods National Monument is the only old-growth coastal redwood forest in the Bay Area, and one of the last left in the world. At one time, nearly 2 million acres of old-growth redwoods grew in a strip along the coast, spanning from Oregon, south to California. As of today, 97% of those forests have been destroyed or altered. “Old-growth” has 4 defining characteristics --
Large Live Trees - The tallest coastal redwood at Muir Woods is about 258 feet. The average age of the coastal redwoods at Muir Woods is between 600 to 800 years, with the oldest being at least 1,200 years old. This is still young for redwoods as they can live up to 2,200 years. Being long-lived and large in size, they play a significant role in carbon, nutrient, and water cycling in the forest, helping to support an abundance of plant and animal life.
Multi-layered Structure - Herbaceous, Understory, and Canopy. Each of these three layers support a different community of plants and each one is well adapted to its position in the forest.
Dead Trees - Believe it or not, even dead trees are vital for the forest and take many different forms. They can fall and become part of the forest floor and aquatic community or can remain standing, becoming what is known as a snag. They provide homes and important nutrients for the other living things in the forest’s ecosystem.
Interdependent Communities - All the different components of an old-growth forest are dependent on one another. An old-growth forest is more than just large trees, it is an interconnected and diverse community of plants and animals.
13,000 years ago, Muir Woods (formerly known as Redwood Canyon) was home to the Huimen, a tribe of the Coast Miwok people. Before European settlers colonized the area, the Huimen were estimated to number around 3,000. Due to the Spanish Missions, European disease, and slavery, by 1840 the number had decreased to roughly 300 people, and by the onset of the 20th century, the Huimen population had dropped to 6 members, all of whom were mixed ancestry. In 1889, Redwood Canyon was acquired by San Francisco Land and Water Company, and they had begun to auction off the land for development. Eventually, The California Club, a women’s club based in San Francisco and founded by Laura Lyon White, took over the campaign to save Redwood Canyon, and helped preserve other redwoods across the state of California. On January 9, 1908, a year and a half after the United State Congress passed the Antiquities Act, President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Muir Woods to be a National Monument, ensuring its continued preservation to this day.
“I am heartily in sympathy of any effort to save these trees”
Muir Woods Trail is the main loop trail. At 1.3 miles, it’s perfect for families with littles or those who are simply looking for a leisurely stroll through the trees. This loop is a combination of boardwalk and asphalt, so it is also handicapped accessible. If you’re looking to add a little more length to your hike, you can continue along Fern Creek Trail, through Cathedral Grove (Shhh! This is a designated quiet area), and cross Bridge #4, which will allow you to return along Hillside Trail, extending your loop to 3 miles. Both trails are rated as easy, and have an elevation gain of less than 50ft. Want something a little more challenging? Check out the Ben Johnson to Dipsea Trail Loop. It clocks in at 3.9 miles, with 987ft. of elevation gain. With so many excellent trails in the area, encompassing all ability levels, you really can’t go wrong. Visit www.alltrails.com for more hiking opportunities.
Muir Woods National Monument At A Glance
Parking is limited and MUST be reserved ahead of time by visiting www.gomuirwoods.com ($8.50)
Entrance Fee - $15; Children ages 15 and younger are free
Best Time to Visit - Muir Woods is open year-round, 8am-5pm
Visitor Center - Yes; the visitor center also houses a gift shop and cafe
Junior Ranger Program - Yes; ask for your booklet at the entrance
Camping - There are no options for camping in Muir Woods, but nearby Bootjack and Pantoll campgrounds (Mt. Tamalpais State Park) offer 15 first-come, first serve sites each, and the Steep Ravine area offers cabins and primitive, hike-in sites. Currently, all state park camp sites and rentals are closed, due to COVID restrictions.
Pets are not allowed, but ADA recognized service dogs are permissable.
There is NO cell phone coverage in Muir Woods, so be sure to plan accordingly.
For more info, visit https://www.nps.gov/muwo/